Words Ted Delahoy

Vietnam is a country that seems to have everything. Some of the best food, beaches, scenery you will find anywhere, but what about football?

Exploring the country it quickly became clear Vietnam has that too.

After a brief visit to Ha Long Bay where I watched locals play beach football with a spectacular backdrop, I moved on to the capital.

Hanoi has two top flight teams, Hanoi Football Club and Viettel Football Club.

Viettel FC, formerly known as The Cong, have historically been the most successful club in the country, having won a record 20 titles. However, in recent years Hanoi FC have established themselves as the main powerhouse in Vietnamese football winning six titles since 2010 compared to Viettel’s one.

The two sides have naturally become rivals and contest what has been dubbed ‘the Hanoi derby’. As you’d expect, these are often high stakes games.

What is more, the two clubs share the same stadium which I think always adds to a derby spectacle. Seeing a ground split in half with supporters, half red and half purple in this case, is always a thrilling sight, one usually reserved for cup finals.

Unfortunately travel restraints meant I couldn’t watch the derby but I got to spend time exploring the historic ground they share, Hang Day stadium.

Established in 1934 as a football field and then turned into a 22,500 capacity ground between 1956-58, the structure remains the same to this day with angular brutal faded yellow concrete stands reaching out and almost touching the buildings around.

Locals sit outside playing cards and selling tickets. Walking round the ground I enjoyed the fact there was a sports shop selling counterfeit Hanoi FC shirts directly opposite the club shop.

You can also get a bowl of noodles for a few pence or even a haircut for not much more. These kinds of affordable conveniences aren’t available around the likes of Anfield or Old Trafford the last time I checked.

I loved the character of the place, even though there wasn’t a match there was still a buzz, but then again that is true about most of Vietnam.

Dodging passing motorbikes and scooters is all part of the fun and I loved how accessible the ground is, round every corner something interesting was happening. The doors were open and I was free to have a peek inside and see the portrait of Ho Chi Minh looking down onto the pitch.

Hang Day Stadium is a remarkable place, full of charm at every turn.

Going forward, the stadium is going to get a two-hundred and €50m renovation by French company Bouygues.

It’s good news that club football in Vietnam is getting such a large investment and the ground could definitely use a lick of paint. I just hope the same character can be found after the revamp because I need to come back and experience the derby here one day.

Don’t park the bus: Vietnam